Diving watches are perhaps one of the most sought after categories in the world. At least in terms of popularity, these models overtook the classic “three-handers” back in the last century. Watches from the RIM SUB diving line of the Italian brand Mazzucato are ready to support the general course for leadership positions.
Why are diving models valued? For strength (I would even say, "indestructibility"), expressive sporty design and strong masculine character, sung by the heroes biopiclike James Bond, Dutch, Rambo and "carrier" Frank Martin. I remained an adherent of the classics for a long time, until at the beginning of the 50s I received a PADI certificate in the Red Sea and became addicted to diving. And the first thing I bought plastic Timex Ironman with a water resistance of XNUMX meters.
During dives, they turned out to be quite functional, but their design, frankly, was too simple, so I had to immerse myself in the study of the issue in order to choose a more striking and charismatic model. I bought several at once and still monitor the appearance of new diving models on the market, since not all watches are suitable for diving.
For more than a hundred years, engineers have been working to create a completely waterproof watch that can be used at great depths. Among the mandatory options for “divers” were a screw-down crown and case back, as well as a special thickened glass. Hans Wilsdorf (head of Rolex) was the first to realize their desires in the 30s of the last century by releasing the Oyster model.
The design turned out to be very reliable, and therefore popular: other watch manufacturers immediately began to copy it. During the Second World War, when waterproof watches were actively used by combat swimmers, engineers came up with special brackets to protect the crown (the most vulnerable part of the watch) from damage. And in 1971, all at the same Rolex company, engineers began to equip diving models with a special helium valve, which equalized the pressure outside and inside the case, protecting the watch from damage during deep diving.
By the end of the 20th century, a set of international standards ISO 6425 was formed, which defines the requirements for diving watches. Among the main ones are a counter-clockwise rotating bezel (it allows you to calculate the remaining time until the ascent), hour markers and hands with a luminescent coating (so that you can tell the time even in poor visibility), water resistance of at least 100 meters, resistance to magnetic fields by force up to 4800 ampere/meter, etc.
All this set of characteristics has a new model of the Mazzucato RIM SUB SK1-BL brand, which came to me for a test. Separately, it is worth noting that the watch is packed in a beautiful beige case with large red latches on the sides, shaped like a bathyscaphe with a porthole in the upper part, through which the watch itself is visible. Looks stylish.
Never be boring
The Mazzucato brand was created in Milan - the cradle of design, style and fashion trends - in 2014. The global popularity of the brand is growing day by day, largely due to quite avant-garde collections. The founder of the company, Simone Mazzucato, is a well-known industrial designer who started his career in the XNUMXs in collaboration with the watch brand Locman Italia. Simone has reimagined classic style with innovative materials and vibrant colors.
After several years of successful work, Mazzucato founded his own brand, fully reflecting his vision and creativity. In 2018, he received silver at the European Product Design Awards for the RIM Sport model, and then gold for the RIM Scuba. Mazzucato also boasts the opening of the first international watch design studio in Hong Kong and collaborations with many globally successful brands.
The brand's slogan "Never Boring" hints at the ambitions of the founder. Mazzucato decided to create a segment of inexpensive yet innovative watches in terms of design. By the way, the name RIM (Reverse Industrial Movement) refers both to the watch's aesthetic style and to its distinctive feature: the unique reverse movement. In the same case, there is a mechanical watch and a RIM chronograph. The "Reverse" system allows you to turn the case 180 degrees, changing the dial visible to us.
The quick-release latch releases the crown from blocking. Two special levers allow the case to rotate freely, and a distinct click indicates that the case is in the correct position to be locked in place.
Most of the brand's models are created using this design, but Simone's RIM SUB diver line had to be made according to the classical scheme in order to ensure water resistance at the level of 200 meters. The refined design of the watch is clearly inspired by the world of diving.
Details of the skeletonized dial are reminiscent of the regulators and valves of the respiratory system. References to diving can also be seen in other details, for example, in round and elongated hour markers coated with a luminescent composition, which, like divers, seem to hover above the seabed-dial.
By the way, I want to dispel one of the myths about diving watches. It is believed that bright dials allow better reading of data. This misconception dates back to 1967, when the Doxa SUB 300 was launched on the market. Its creator, Urs Eschle, decided to test how the colors of the dials are perceived in Lake Neuchâtel and noticed that orange is the most noticeable. As a result, orange has made this model a cult favorite among divers.
However, as studies recently conducted by a group of scientists showed, everything works differently during deep-sea diving: already at a depth of 5-7 meters on a watch without illumination, the red and orange dials look like dull gray. And the "yellow" and "blue" have a couple more meters of head start. The fact is that the readability of diving watches depends on the contrast between the dial and the hands. And best of all, when the watch has a dark background and large marks and white hands, like the RIM SUB model.
Inside the case is a thin, automatic and high-frequency movement with a diameter of 27,4 mm and a frequency of 3 Hz, which provides a frequency of 28 semi-oscillations per hour, which makes the movement extremely smooth and, thanks to 800 jewels, very accurate with an impressive 24-hour reserve. move. The crown was covered with a folding protective bracket.
In addition to the bright design, the materials from which the model is made deserve attention. For example, the case is made of hypoallergenic 316L surgical steel and impresses with the effect of alternating glossy and matte metal. The K1 mineral tempered glass is scratch-resistant and anti-reflective, while the rubber strap makes it comfortable to wear with a shirt or over the cuff of a wetsuit. The strap is equipped with a special spring bar that allows you to change it to a metal bracelet without any tools in a few seconds.
Bezel with luminous enamel insert (for better visibility) rotates in one direction. This is done so that a diver who dives under water with scuba gear can detect the time of the dive and calmly control the time spent under water.
The Mazzucato logo is engraved on the left side of the case, and the case back is rated water resistant (200 meters) for almost any dive. By the way, Mazzucato has another nice line of diving watches - Scuba, but, despite their brutal appearance, they have a water resistance of only 100 meters.
So the RIM SUB line, in my opinion, is the most optimal both in style (suitable for both jeans and a business suit) and in application (you can dive into them and not worry about their safety). It is worth trying to vilify and evaluate how they look on your hand.