Rating of men's watches: top wrist models from the best brands

We are no exception. We love ratings too. We also love the watch. And at the end of that, we have compiled several ratings of men's wristwatches. Several - because the subject of consideration is very extensive. Well, as it goes on, it will become clear what is meant.

A small remark: within each list, we did not place watch brands or watch models in any order - this is a gold medal, this is a silver one, etc. Such a ranking would, perhaps, even be risky. So we limited ourselves to drawing up "tops". Which, however, are also conditional, because we do not pretend to be the ultimate truth. Moreover, when it comes to such delicate matter as famous brands.

RATING OF BRANDS OF MEN'S WATCHES: TOP-10

This rating is the most general of all. But since the next ones will be more private (for example, separately Swiss watches, and separately Japanese ones), here, in "total", we decided to make something like a national team of the world: 10 countries, from each - one watch brand. It is not surprising that most of these are watches - a) mechanical and b) expensive. All in all, elite.

Switzerland - Rolex

In the Geneva company, they say that they do not produce watches, but "Rolex" - in the same sense in which we call any copier copier. No, in the world of watches, this, of course, will not come, but still ...

From year to year, the brand issues "on-the-mountain" whole series of new products. It was the same in 2019, and almost all of these new items are doomed to become hits in 2021 and beyond. Highlighting the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42: Oyster case, white gold and Cerachrom ceramic, high-definition Chromalight display. Inside there is a new generation movement, automatic caliber 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve and an accuracy of ± 2 sec. per day.

Germany - A. Lange & Sohne

On December 7, 1990, exactly 145 years after the founding of A. Lange & Sohne, Walter Lange revived the watch brand by re-establishing the company founded in Glashütte by his great-grandfather Ferdinand-Adolph Lange. Over the following decades, the company has achieved the status of one of the leaders of the fine watchmaking art.

A. Lange & Sohne only works with in-house movements and attaches great importance to the final processing of products carried out in accordance with its own strictest standards. Finishing and assembly is done by hand, followed by the adjustment of the mechanisms.

The loud premiere of 2019 was the Odysseus model, which marked the beginning of a new chapter in the history of A. Lange & Sohne: the manufactory had not previously released a serial steel watch in the sport fashion style.

Japan - Grand Seiko

The Japanese watch giant has come a long way towards leading positions in the industry. And it is held firmly in the world "top"! It is no coincidence that the names of the families of mechanisms of the Grand Seiko brand, which officially became separate in 2017, begin with the number 9: the words “nine” and “maximum”, if pronounced in Japanese, are very consonant.

This philosophy is reflected in the Grand Seiko standards for mechanical movements. If the Swiss COSC standard specifies an average daily deviation within -4 / + 6 seconds, then the Grand Seiko standard is -3 / + 5, the Grand Seiko Special is -2 / + 4, and the Grand Seiko VFA is -1 / + 3.

The impressive achievements of Grand Seiko are models that are exceptional in aesthetic content and in the quality of its implementation. Thus, the dials of the Elegance watches are coated with the endemic urushi lacquer, and the indexes are made by applying a multitude of lacquer layers, which makes the dial look three-dimensional.

Russia - Konstantin Chaykin

Of course, Russian manufacturers cannot but be present in our "top". Konstantin Chaikin, founder and driving force of the Moscow manufactory, is the author of many patented inventions and original design solutions. In recent years, the Joker face watch has been a success. The eyes with rotating pupils replace the hour and minute hands, and the mouth is the moon phase indicator.

A number of versions of this model have also been created - Clown, Dracula, Selfie. And for the Year of the Rat, which came on January 25, 2020, the Mouse King watch was released, based on Hoffmann's fairy tale about the Nutcracker. Here the “face” is a pretty mouse face, the upper lugs of the strap are really ears, and the crown, located at 12 o'clock, is made of gold and decorated with a ruby, like a real royal crown. The body is made of titanium, which resembles mouse fur in color and texture.

Italy - U-Boat

Many watch companies that originated in different European countries have moved to Switzerland over time. This also applies to Italy, but there are also companies that have remained in their historical homeland. Such is the brand U-Boat, which is based in the Tuscan city of Lucca. In 2000, Italo Fontana tracked down his grandfather's drawings from before World War II, was inspired by them, and founded the U-Boat company.

Currently, the U-Boat brand book has six complete mechanical watch collections. One of the new products presented on the eve of 2020 was the Doppiotempo 1938 model, created by order of the special forces of the Italian carabinieri. Steel, two heads on the left side of the case, one with normal functions, the other for installing a second chord.

It is worth noting that Italo Fontana is friends with the famous Russian singer and entrepreneur Emin Agalarov, who, of course, is the brand's ambassador.

Belgium - Ressence

The name of the firm, founded by Benoit Mintienne in 2009 in Antwerp, is an acronym for its motto: Renaissance of the Essential. According to Benoit, creating a watch, you need to start with the indication, that is, with the dial, which is the face of the watch, its very essence. All models of the brand use the ROCS - Ressence Orbital Convex System - a mobile platform with rotating discs and rings of different sizes installed on it.

The Ressence watch is wound by rotating the back cover using a special pivot bracket. There is clear oil under the glass; this space is separated from the part of the case in which the movement is located by a sealed titanium membrane. Mechanical contact between these two volumes is not possible, and Ressence has come up with a sophisticated system using micromagnets on both sides of the membrane.

At the moment, the pinnacle of Ressence's creativity is the Type 5. The case is made of titanium, on the dial there is a central indicator (“hand”) of minutes and satellite indicators of hours and seconds, as well as an oil temperature indicator.

Great Britain - Roger W. Smith

Historically, England is almost the birthplace of modern watchmaking. The contribution made by the masters of the 2020th - 50th centuries Thomas Tompion, George Graham, Thomas Mudge, John Harisson is in many ways fundamental. Subsequently, the center of watchmaking moved to Switzerland, but in the twentieth century, British chronology gave a truly great master - George Daniels, among whose fundamental achievements is the coaxial escapement, which became the trademark for the famous watch company Omega. Roger W. Smith, Daniels' student and successor, turns XNUMX in XNUMX, lives and works on the Isle of Man, creates watches, like a teacher, by hand and almost alone. Today Smith is one of the world's most respected independent artists.

The Daniels' Anniversary model is dedicated to the memory of Daniels, timed to coincide with the 35th anniversary of the invention of the coascal escapement and released in a symbolic edition of 35 copies. The work of the teacher and student began together, and Smith finished it after the death of Daniels. The result is a kind of standard of watchmaking, hand made in yellow gold, with hour, minute, second, date and power reserve indicators. The first few copies are signed by both authors, the rest are a facsimile of one Smith ...

Netherlands - Gronefeld

The logo of the brand, under its name, is in small letters: HOROLOGICAL BROTHERS, which translates as "Watch brothers". Tim and Bart Grönefeld are hereditary watchmakers. Their grandfather Johan Grönefeld opened a workshop in his hometown of Oldenzaal, almost on the German border, in 1912. The workshop was located right outside the walls of the local church, and Johan also looked after the tower clock there.

After his death, the business - both the workshop and the parish duties - was inherited by Johan's son, Sief. His sons, brothers Tim and Bart, grew up from infancy under the ticking of all kinds of clocks - wrist, pocket, interior - and the battle of the church. It is not surprising that as adults, they continued the work of their father and grandfather.

The brothers underwent serious training in Switzerland, worked for eight years at the Renaud & Papi movement factory, owned by the elite watch company Audemars Piguet, and after returning to their homeland, they organized their own brand. The first Gronefeld watch, a very complex design, was released in 2008. And in 2016, the Gronefeld 1941 Remontoire won the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in the Men's Watch nomination.

Finland - Voutilainen

Kari Vutilainen has lived and worked in Switzerland for a long time, but does not put the words “Swiss made” on his watches - if only Hand made. Or even altogether - just the name of the brand. The master does not break ties with his homeland, therefore he represents Finland in our "world team". Moreover, in Russia he is often called the Finnish Lefty. This nickname was deservedly assigned to him by Vutilainen. A unique watch must be unique in everything - this is the motto that Kari follows unswervingly.

The Voutilainen brand was registered in 2002, and just three years later at the Basel exhibition, it made a splash with an unprecedented repeater that strikes hours, 10-minute intervals and minutes. Two more years passed, and the Voutilainen Observatoire won the GPHG in the Men's Watch nomination, after which Kari became the owner of the Golden Hands four more times. The last (so far) of these triumphs is dated November 2019, in the same category: the 28 TI model, equipped with the unique Vutilainen design and manufacturing mechanism and finished to the highest standards, became the winner.

Malaysia - Ming

It's no secret that Asia, including Southeast Asia, is rapidly progressing in watchmaking. One of the striking examples is the young watch company Ming from Kuala Lumpur. It was created by six passionate people led by a talented designer named Ming Tein. The public debut of the brand took place only in August 2017, but the reputation came very quickly - and this is a very high reputation.

Experts and connoisseurs have appreciated the exceptionally harmonious design of Ming watches, and this applies not only to the dial or case separately, but to the entire product as a whole. At GPHG-2019, the Ming 17.06 Cooper won the palm in the "Hourly Discovery" category. This functionally simple watch is truly a discovery; in terms of quality, it is perfection itself.

It should be added that the company has actively joined the "big watch world": for example, the mechanism of the 17.06 Cooper watch was made at the Schwarz-Etienne factory in Switzerland (each piece was then individually disassembled-assembled-tuned in Kuala Lumpur), the hand-made strap was made in Jean Rousseau studio (Paris), as well as handmade leather case - in Studio Koji workshop (Japan).

Then there are a few more partial (if you like, more specialized “tops” ratings).

SWISS MEN'S WATCHES: THE BIG FOUR

The Rolex brand has already been mentioned above. And also in Switzerland there are several dozen companies producing luxury wristwatches, both mechanical and electronic. According to the dominant opinion of connoisseurs, first of all it is necessary to note the brands, which are sometimes called the Big Four. It just so happened (by accident!) That the name of each of these companies is composed of two surnames.

Patek Philippe

Two Polish émigrés, Anthony Patek and Frantisek Czapek, founded the company in Geneva in 1839. Soon Czapek seceded and was replaced by Jean Adrian Philippe, the inventor of the keyless winding mechanism. Nowadays, Patek Philippe is one of the grandees of fine watchmaking. The production volumes are not the highest, but in terms of value ... Which, of course, is fully justified by the perfection of the models - both technical and aesthetic. Patek Philippe watches hold records for the complexity of their functionality and for the prices they get at the world's most prestigious auctions. The record was the result of a lot from Patek Philippe at the OnlyWatch charity auction held in November 2019: a special piece of the Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications, including five - acoustic, went under the hammer for 31 million Swiss francs!

Audemars Piguet

The brand was founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemart and Edouard-Auguste Piguet, then barely over 20 years old. The company remains independent to this day, which is a fairly rare exception in the modern watch industry. The current seat of the company is the town of Le Brassus. Without exaggeration, an epoch-making milestone in world watchmaking was the creation of the Royal Oak watch in 1972.

Designed by the great master Gerald Genta, their designs remain iconic to this day and set the tone and style for countless other brands. In 2021, Audemars Piguet enters as the main laureate - the owner of the Golden Arrow Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve for the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin model.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre opened in the town of Le Mantier a small workshop for the manufacture of gears for watch movements. And in 1866 he organized the production of watches as such, and LeCultre's work quickly gained universal recognition. In 1929, Edmond Jéger became a full-fledged companion of the descendants of the founder of the company, after which the brand received its current name. Perhaps the most recognizable of all Jaeger-LeCoultre's outstanding watch collections are the Reverso.

They first saw the light of day in the 1930s, when they were created for British officers who were keen on playing polo. The rectangular case of Reverso can be turned upside down without removing the watch from your hand and thus protect the fragile glass and delicate dial from possible blows with a club, ball, hoof ... Today Reverso, in many versions, is not only intended for this tough game , remain relevant and highly valued in the world.

Vacheron Constantin

The history of the oldest manufactory to date dates back to 1755, when 24-year-old Jean-Marc Vacheron opened a watch workshop in Geneva. Elegant and reliable models very soon attracted the attention of the European nobility - including the royal court of France. And in 1819 François Constantin joined the company, and, by the way, at the same time the brand's successful cooperation with Russia began - also with high society.

By 2021, the brand, which has established itself as a multitude of watchmaking masterpieces, has prepared a truly revolutionary model, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The main thing in it is two modes of operation of the mechanism. The main one for wearing a watch on the wrist and actively using it is high-frequency and, accordingly, high-precision. The second mode is designed to store watches when they are at rest: they are transferred to a reduced frequency of balance oscillations, and then the power reserve increases to an unprecedented (for mechanics) 65 days!

MOST POPULAR JAPANESE WATCHES: BIG THREE

Seiko

Japan is a special country, and in terms of watches too. The first truly electronic wristwatch is a Japanese product, specifically the 1969 Seiko Quartz Astron. This model, with its unprecedented accuracy of ± 5 seconds per month, changed the very concept of timekeeping (at the same time almost destroying the watch mechanics). Seiko technologies have entered the lives of almost all people on the planet and continue to play a major role in our ever-changing world. Seiko experts have invented and implemented many more high-tech innovations. And although the company continues to produce outstanding mechanical watches as well, we still note the electronic ones here.

A new series of Astron GPS Solar 2021X watches is doomed to become one of the hits of 5: quartz, accuracy ± 1 second in 100 (one hundred thousand!) Years, solar charging, perpetual calendar, world time, GPS module. At the same time, the price category is of the middle class: about 000 thousand rubles.

Citizen

In this Tokyo corporation, they are not inclined to agree with Seiko's priority in terms of electronic watches. The company, founded in 1918 as the Institute for the Development of Watches, and received its current name in 1930, insists: the world's first electronic watch - Citizen X8, mid-1960s. We will not figure out who the championship actually belongs to, but we note that Citizen has many other achievements, including power from a solar battery, a built-in radio antenna, synchronization with satellites. And the proprietary Eco-Drive technology provides the watch with energy from almost any light source, both natural and artificial.

One of Citizen's highest levels of technology is the Eco-Drive CC1075-05E with calendar, world time and battery indication. What is very significant - even in complete darkness, this charge lasts for 2 years! The price is the same middle class as the aforementioned Seiko.

Orient

Founded in Tokyo in 1901 and half a century later, the company that received its current name was part of the Japanese "Big Three" along with Seiko and Citizen. The brand is justly proud of both a number of innovations in the field of micromechanics and the fact that it has adequately met the "quartz tsunami" by creating many excellent electronic chronometers. However, even today, the main focus for the company, which is now a subsidiary of the Seiko Epson corporation, remains mechanical watches, produced in mass quantities (total production exceeds 2 million pieces) and at affordable prices.

Among the Orient products, a significant share belongs to sports watches. A very good impression is made, for example, by the Sporty Automatic Diving model, which has a water resistance of 300 m and meets all the criteria of the international diving standard ISO 6425. True, their water resistance is lower - but still serious (200 m, 100 m). In terms of price-quality ratio, few of the world's manufacturers can compare with Orient.

SPORT WATCH 2021: PRIZE TRIP

Many luxury watch manufacturers are involved in sports. They are the official timekeepers of major competitions, from the Olympics to the equestrian trotting trials, partners of auto racing teams and football clubs, among their ambassadors are world sports stars. But if we talk about practical use in physical education and sports, expensive and very expensive mechanical watches are naturally inferior to electronic ones. Quartz is more precise, its functionality is wider, and the price-quality ratio is beyond competition. Below are three models of sports watches that can be useful this year both in winter and in summer.

Casio Edifice Scuderia Toro Rosso EQB-1000TR

The Edifice sub-brand is the official partner of the Scuderia Toro Rosso stable, participating in the Formula 1 championships. Unlike the timekeepers of almost all other teams, Edifice watches are electronic and very inexpensive. Accuracy is almost absolute, because it provides for work in tandem with a smartphone and automatic time adjustment 4 times a day. The stopwatch detects thousandths of a second. There is a memory for 200 laps of the race. Powered by a solar battery. World clock, automatic calendar, alarm clock, dial illumination, sapphire crystal, water resistance up to 100 m ... What else does an athlete need from a wrist instrument, whether he is a professional or an amateur? Almost nothing.

Suunto 9 Baro Titanium

But this multifunctional wrist device from the Finnish company has a lot that others do not have: compass, altimeter, optical heart rate monitor, step and calorie counter, activity analysis, satellite navigation, route planning, planning, tracking and analysis of training sessions for running, swimming , cycling, in total - more than 80 sport modes. Menu in 17 languages.

Victorinox INOX Professional Diver Titanium

It is impossible to do without a diving watch in this section. And, as it turns out, no Swiss ones either. Of course, Victorinox is primarily army knives, but the company also produces watches that are also very worthy. This model, in a titanium case, with water resistance up to 200 m and all other features that meet the diving standard ISO 6425, has also passed rigorous tests for fire resistance, shock resistance, magnetism.

There are two spectacular and useful "cherries on the cake" at once: a Naimakka paracord strap (if necessary, it can be unwound into long bundles that can withstand a load of up to 250 kg) and a removable protective bumper with a magnifying glass included in the delivery set.

INEXPENSIVE BUT GOOD: THIS IS FIVE

Aviator MIG-25 Foxbot M.1.05.5.012.6... The brand was founded in Russia in 2002, in 2011 it moved to Switzerland. But the connection with the Motherland has not been severed, as well as with aviation. The design of this model, dedicated to the legendary Soviet fighter, is emphasized by the air force. The date three-hand watch is powered by the Swiss quartz caliber Ronda 6004.D. The case back is decorated with an engraved airplane image.

Urban Classic Chrono 01.1743.103... Another Swiss knife maker, former competitor to Victorinox, now absorbed by it, but retaining operational independence in watchmaking. The model we have chosen is distinguished by its elegance and, at the same time, restrained brutality. PVD gold plated steel, 100m water resistant, Swiss quartz inside. Three hands, date, chronograph.

Diesel Rasp Chrono DZ4445... The Italian manufacturer still holds the record for the largest wristwatch size: the diameter of the Grand Daddy model is 66 mm, and 4 quartz "engines" serve 4 time zones. For this review, we have chosen a watch that is not so exotic, but also very masculine. PVD-coated steel, 50 mm, dominant color black, three hands, date and chronograph. Crown and buttons - on the left side: watches for left-handers and for presidents.

Casio G-SHOCK DW-5600E-1V... Here and nostalgia: this watch is a direct descendant of the very first "jishoks" in 1983, and admiration for progress: the model is absolutely modern, equipped with decent functionality and, as always with this brand, is practically "indestructible". With this quality and more than a budget price - who can compete in terms of price-quality ratio?

East Commanding 211562... As a result, patriotism prevailed: we conclude the review with a domestic product. It itself is legendary, its fate is not easy, let's hope - better times are ahead. Signs of this are already visible - at least in the original design, including the national Russian colors on the dial.