NORQAIN - we started our acquaintance with this model by literally turning the crown several times to make the watch go, and put it on the device for checking the accuracy of the movement. And they were a little stunned: -1 second per day, -3, +1, 0, again 0 ... And this is with a loose spring! Wow, newbie...
Although, why be surprised? Caliber NN20/1 is the same that Tudor calls MT54, and Tudor watches with this caliber have already won about five Geneva Grand Prix. This mechanism is produced by the Kenissi factory. Even from the photo you will understand: there is nothing in common with ETA either in terms of design or parameters. Pay attention to at least two support symmetrical balance bridge.
How could a young brand get access to movements of this class?
Everything is about connections. The idea of the Norqain project belongs to Ted Schneider, the son of the owner of Breitling. When his father sold Breitling to investment fund CVC Capital in 2017, Ted did not want to leave the watch business and, together with one of the company's managers, Ben Cuffero, decided to launch a new project. For Ben, watches were not just a job either: his father, Mark Küffer, is a co-owner of the Roventa Henex watch and components factory. And since God loves a trinity, friends invited the most famous Swiss hockey player, Mark Streit, to the project, who became the main investor. It turned out to be a young project, headed by people with extensive experience and connections in the industry. Which, moreover, also love watches.
The second disadvantage of young brands is the lack of production. Norqain managed to turn him into a plus. Not only do they not make their own mechanisms here, but they don’t even assemble them. Why, if there are those who do it professionally? This is done by the already mentioned company Roventa Henex, which for Norqain, due to family ties, is related. In the Swiss watch industry, division of labor is the norm: there are brands, and there are manufacturing companies that do the main work, but usually remain in the shadows. The main thing is connections.
Industry connections helped Norqain negotiate the supply of mechanisms. The Kenissi factory was established in 2016 by Rolex with the main goal of producing movements for Tudor. But in order to make the project profitable, participation in it was offered first by Breitling, and then by Chanel. Now let's add up three facts: the Schneider family owns Breitling, Roventa, co-owned by Küffer, a longtime partner in Chanel's watch division, and Breitling and Chanel own stakes in Kenissi. How can you not agree? As a result, Norqain is the fourth brand to use Kenissi movements today. The other three are Breitling, Chanel and, of course, Tudor.
Inside this particular model is the caliber NN20/1. This is what Tudor calls the MT54. Diameter 26 mm, power reserve 70 hours, claimed accuracy according to COSC criteria. But what is declared, but what is in reality? I gave indicators with a loose spring. When wound in six positions, the device gave out 0, +1, 0, -1, +1 and again 0 ...
The mechanism runs great. Looks too. Perlage, Geneva stripes and other traditional decor were abandoned here. Mostly matting was used on the bridges, on the sector - the sun's rays and the logo: two stylized letters N, forming the top. Pay attention to the two-support symmetrical balance bridge and the thoroughness of the processing of bridges and screws. In general, the decor of the mechanism is made in a modern, I would even say, sporty style. Just like the clock itself.
The style of this watch is sporty luxury. To us, they seemed to be something close to the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet: either in style or in the quality of the case. It is very good.
The watch seems to be strict in a sporty way, but it has many interesting elements that catch the eye. For example, ears matted inside. Together with the shoulders near the crown and the symmetrically located platform with the logo on the left side of the case, they give the watch a sporty character. The case diameter is 42 millimeters, the thickness is slightly less than 12, sports water resistance is 100 meters.
The dial deserves a separate discussion. It is two-level, the main part is blue. It has a texture reminiscent of a cut of a meteorite, but it is varnish. The designers worked very carefully with the colors: steel, black, blue and two red accents: a triangle at the tip of the second hand and the inscription Chronometer.
The three-piece link bracelet is finished with a safety clasp. On the new watch, opening the bracket with the logo was not so convenient. But to be honest, this is a nitpick. Besides, it's the only one. Like the case, the performance of the bracelet is very good.
The watch sits very nicely on the wrist. I have a narrow wrist, but the body is harmonious and comfortable. Despite the steel case and bracelet, the watch does not feel heavy. It's nice that the edges of the bracelet are processed and do not cling. Not all of the competitors in the price group can boast of this.
All in all, Norqain turned out to be a very atypical example of a young luxury brand. The company does not have a long history, but behind it are people well known in the industry. And this means that it will only develop. There is no production of movements, but for me, this is a fat plus: Kenissi movements are excellent, besides, there will be no problems with warranty parts, I tend to trust Rolex. That is, all the traditional disadvantages here were able to turn into pluses.
The watch costs a little more than $3. Who can be listed as Norqain's competitors? Older models Tag Heuer, something from Breitling or Tudor. I have not held Tudor in my hands for more than a year, I forgot tactilely and I will not undertake to compare. The mechanism is the same. Despite the enthusiastic talk in watch circles, Tudor's liquidity is weak.
Breitling is more expensive, it is two orders of magnitude more famous, decent liquidity, but models comparable in price, in my opinion, lose in case design.
Tag Heuer cases at a comparable price are simpler even visually. Feeling I vote for Norqain, and for the mechanism I vote for him too. On the side of Tag Heuer is fame and liquidity. Due to their youth, Norqain's are weak.
If you are looking for something well-known that can potentially be sold, albeit at a loss in price, Norqain is definitely not for you. If these factors are not important, if you buy watches for yourself, Tudor and Norqain remain. Moreover, in my opinion, Norqain looks brighter, more interesting. But in terms of design, there is no comrade for the taste and color.
