Ask anyone where the best watches in the world are made, and most will answer - in Switzerland. Indeed, most recognizable brands, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Patek Philippe, come from this war-free country. But look across the border to Germany and you'll see a renaissance of great watch names and a galaxy of young brands that are successfully competing with their Swiss neighbors. After half a century of stagnation and recovery after the Second World War, which suppressed development, companies that are iconic to German watchmaking are once again at the forefront of the watch industry.
Cases: hardening and strength of metal
German wristwatches are unique, often created in a highly specialized manner, using original know-how both outside and inside the cases. This is not surprising given the Germans' reputation for meticulous technique and craftsmanship.
Externally, these are hardened stainless steel cases, as well as a coating created using a special technology and whose hardness is several times higher than ordinary steel (up to 1200 Vickers instead of the standard 200-240). The main advantage is extreme protection against corrosion and scratches.
The protection of the case from the inside is also noteworthy: argon gas is pumped inside, which prevents moisture from entering and provides a more stable environment for the oil used in the mechanism. These can also be capsules with copper sulfate, which absorb moisture that does get inside.
The German metalworking tradition is alive and well with cabinet makers like Fricker and Ickler. They produce custom watch cases both domestically and internationally, and their products are well-regarded for their durability and low fault rate.
Mechanisms: innovation and “German silver”
Great watchmakers, such as those from Glashütte, have focused on mechanical innovation since the 1840s: fusee-chain transmission, a thirty-day power reserve, a mechanical alarm clock that sounds once a month, to name just a few. achievements.
Traditionally, the mechanisms here were made from an alloy of nickel and copper, which is called “German silver”. They had three-quarter main plates that provided a strong support for the gear wheels.
Modern made in Germany movements still differ in these characteristics. The rich history of fine and intricate movement decoration is still evident in the A. Lange & Söhne calibers, where hundreds of details are hand-engraved on both sides and the balance bar is adorned with the master's signature.
Design: architectural minimalism
The style of most German watches can be described as minimalistic and functional, in keeping with the German Bauhaus architectural style, where clean lines and form follow function. There is no unnecessary labeling on the dial, moderate use of color and an emphasis on legibility.
Housings often have straight edges and angled mounting lugs. Even to the untrained eye, the DNA of German watches is obvious, that same unobtrusive, natural elegance that makes cars, tools and watches from Germany instantly recognizable.
Iconic names
Functionality and discipline of Stowa. The representative of the city of Pforzheim is the Stowa brand, the legendary name of which has again become relevant thanks to the watchmaker Jörg Schauer. Creator of marine chronometers and aviation watches for the German military, Stowa produces updated versions of historical models. The brand's assortment includes two excellent lines of divers, Seatime and Prodiver, in beautiful angular cases, with bright dials and interchangeable colored bezels.
Invaluable meticulousness of A. Lange & Söhne. The revival of the leader of German watchmaking A. Lange & Söhne took place in 1994 thanks to the great-grandson of the founder, Walter Lange. The company is known for its innovation, fidelity to tradition and great attention to detail. Expensive watches with complex and interesting mechanisms, whose even invisible parts are skillfully decorated.
The strong personality of Junkers. Hugo Junkers founded his gas appliance company in 1985 in Dessau, but the First World War forced a switch to aircraft construction, and the world's first all-metal aircraft was soon produced. The company constantly developed and at the end of the XNUMXth century the Junkers watch brand appeared. Collections are created in a wide variety of ways.
In the best Bauhaus traditions, the ultra-thin Eisvogel F13 model has been released. A laconic design, an unusually offset seconds counter and a specially processed dial reminiscent of an eggshell. The German watch breed is visible from afar.
Unquestionable Zeppelin quality. Another bright representative of the German watch arena is the Zeppelin brand. The brand's watches are affordable, although well made and with high-quality finishes. Almost all models have some connection with Zeppelin airships and are made in the retro style of instruments for pilots of the past. Zeppelin uses polished, brushed and satin stainless steel cases, as well as quality hand-crafted leather straps.
