Among the huge number of companies that produce watches, only a very small proportion deserves the status of "manufactory". Recall: in the watch world, this is how manufacturers of a full or almost full cycle are called, and the determining factor is the independent creation of movements (as opposed to their purchase "on the side"). A short series of watch manufactories shines with big names! Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Omega, Zenith and Grand Seiko, Audemars Piguet and A. Lange & Sonne… There are more, but, we repeat, there are not many of them, and all of them are great. It is all the more surprising to find in this series (quite on an equal footing) a comparatively modest manufactory: Titoni.
Entering the second century of life
In the north-west of Switzerland, at the foot of the Jura Mountains, there is a small but ancient and very picturesque town of Grenchen. Watchmaking is traditional here, and in 1919 Fritz Schlup founded the Felco watch company in Grenchen. In 1952, the company received a new name - Titoni, and with it - a logo in the form of a stylized meihua flower.
Years passed, more and more new models and collections were produced, during the Second World War watches were supplied to the allies; generations have changed, but Titoni has always remained an independent family company. Now the fourth generation of the Sloop family is at the helm! And, by the way, the modern production of Titoni is located exactly opposite the place where it all began for the brand a century ago.
Many of the brand's (very attractive) models are powered by ETA and Sellita mechanical calibers. But in 2013, a difficult, very responsible decision was made: to create our own mechanism. The project took six years, and in 2019, exactly on the centenary of the brand, Titoni's first in-house caliber was introduced: the T10 movement.
It is he who is installed in the watch that we are considering today - the diving three-hander Titoni Seascoper.
However, first of all, let's unpack our sample.
First impression
Almost no surprises. Because, firstly, it was difficult to assume flaws in the presentation. They, flaws, and no. And “almost” also applies to the presentation - here is a pleasant surprise: in an elegant leather case (like a business card holder), which complements the leather box with a watch, there is an international guarantee and an instruction manual, moreover, in several languages, including Russian. Plus, a facsimile signature of the current CEO of Titoni, Daniel M. Schlup, great-grandson of the founder of the company.
Secondly, of course, we got acquainted with the characteristics of the model in advance and, despite the fact that its case is made of such a progressive material as carbon, we had absolutely no illusions about the weightlessness of the watch - because they are, after all, very deep water, and strength requires weight. And again, “almost”: the watch is not a feather (and it shouldn’t be a feather), but it immediately seems light.
The general appearance of the model is also well perceived: brutal black with blue accents.
However, about all this in more detail - a little lower, in the relevant sections. And now - to the mechanism.
Caliber T10
As we have already mentioned, the mechanism is manufactured, and this is a huge achievement for a small watch company! Through the transparent case back, you immediately notice the impeccable finish. This is in line with Titoni's declared commitment to the craftsmanship of Swiss watchmaking.
The functions of the mechanism are three hands and a date. Diameter 29,3 mm, thickness 4,1 mm (this is very small). The number of parts is 168, of which 32 are stones. The company emphasizes that some of the components were produced by suppliers from the same Grenchen and its environs.
Of course, there is an automatic winding (unidirectional). The balance makes 28800 half oscillations per hour. The claimed power reserve is a solid 72 hours. We will check this on a specific instance ...
As well as evaluate the accuracy of the course. This is particularly interesting as the T10 is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, which means that the daily deviation should be within -4/+6 seconds. We have three days for these express checks. In the meantime, about the body.
Carbon, ceramic, rubber
The body of our model is no less remarkable. On the one hand - a classic diver, even with a helium valve. Yes, with what water resistance - 600 m! Note: Seascoper translates as "Explorer of the Sea" ...
On the other hand, the body is made of carbon fiber (aka carbon fibre), a progressive material used in particular in the aerospace industry. With equal strength, carbon is almost twice as light as steel. In this case, this is especially important, because the loads at serious sea depths are also more than serious.
Weighing the watch (complete, of course, on a rubber strap) showed 102 grams. For the required strength and with sufficiently serious dimensions - great! Here we will immediately report on the dimensions: the case diameter is 42 mm, the thickness is 14,45 mm (deep water affects - despite the fact that the mechanism, as we have seen, is rather thin).
We will not pass by the protected and screw-down crown, quite “grasping”, as well as by the convex sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating.
The diver's bezel (that is, turning only in one direction) deserves special mention: it is made of black, ceramic in the color of the carbon case and is equipped with a blue diver's scale.
Finally, the strap. Everything is good: black rubber, folding clasp made of composite ... and a wonderful bonus: the package includes an interchangeable strap made of "ocean plastic". Obviously, this refers to the material obtained as a result of the processing of all kinds of garbage caught from the oceans (the remains of fishing nets, etc.). A noble cause!
On the wrist, the watch feels comfortable with any of the straps.
It is impossible not to say here that in October 2022, at the World Championships in free diving, Croatian Petar Klovar set a world record for the depth of free diving - 132 meters. On the hero's hand was a Titoni Seascoper watch.
Clock face
Last but not least in importance. Black dominates, enlivened by blue and white accents. The hour and minute hands are massive, with an unusual shape and partially skeletonized. The readability of the dial is impeccable: large Arabic numerals, also large hour markers, extremely effective luminescence. Let us especially note that the phosphor is also applied to the tip of the second hand.
The date aperture is also quite readable.
Results of assessments of accuracy and power reserve
As for accuracy, everything is more than in order here: the daily deviation turned out to be less than 2 seconds. (toward the backlog). As a reminder, COSC requires -4/+6 seconds, so this criterion is met by at least double the margin.
It turned out to be more difficult with the assessment of the power reserve. Here we have to point out the only discovered drawback of the model: the rotation of the crown during manual winding did not cause any resistance, and therefore it is difficult to say whether we wound the watch “to the stop”. Be that as it may, they worked for the declared three days, even 40 minutes more. But perhaps they would still work? However, this disadvantage is probably the other side of the dignity: we assume that the T10 caliber remontoire is designed in such a way that it will not be possible to “rewind” the watch (thus damaging the mainspring).
Сonclusion
A high-quality piece of Swiss watchmaking has been tested. There are practically no comments, no complaints about him. The model is good not only as a professional diving tool, but also as a worthy accessory in a sporty style, especially in demand among young energetic men.
In conclusion, we note one more advantage of the Titoni Seascoper - the price: about 250 thousand rubles. A watch of this level, but with a manufactory caliber, produced by one of the famous and promoted "grands" of haute horlogerie, could cost ten times more. But before us is an excellent product of a family business, a real Swiss classic, enriched with materials and technologies of the XNUMXst century. And - at a reasonable price!
