We all know very well which models were the first in the “sporty chic” segment with an integrated bracelet. The pioneer in this category was the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, first released in 1972. They were followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), and a little later the Vacheron Constantin 222 was born.
It should not be forgotten that in the interval between the two most famous creations of Gerald Genta, in 1975, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato watch was born. Without waiting for the 50th anniversary of the collection, Girard-Perregaux presented a spectacular new product in a titanium case.
Over almost half a century of production, Girard-Perregaux Laureato models have appeared on the shelves in a variety of materials and with a variety of complications. At first, watches were equipped with quartz movements - almost 10 years passed before the first evolution with mechanical calibers and the appearance of complex functions (1984). The line was seriously updated in 1995 and 2004.
In 2016, Laureato first appeared as a limited edition, and in 2017, the Girard-Perregaux sports flagship returned as a permanent collection. Since then, we seem to have seen every possible color, material, and function in this watch. But it turns out there hasn’t been titanium in the Laureato line yet.
And then he appeared. Externally, the watch (especially to the inexperienced eye) looks like a steel watch. The illusion is shattered as soon as you pick them up - they are very light. The 42 x 12 mm case is made of grade 5 titanium, a difficult-to-process alloy containing 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. It measures 50,5mm from lug to lug and 52mm including the first link of the bracelet. The integrated bracelet, with matte-polished links, tapers from the case to the clasp.
The bezel also features an alternation of brushed and polished finishes: polishing is visible on the round base, while the octagonal top is matte. The octagon is repeated at the base of the screw-down chronograph pushers. The screw-down crown is equipped with protective guards on the sides. The case is water resistant to 100 meters.
The dial has a cool bluish-gray tint. It features a stamped Parisian nails guilloche motif that breaks up the snail-shaped pattern on the chronograph counters. Not everyone will like the date window at 4 o'clock 30 minutes. At the same time, the hour markers and polished gray PVD-coated hands treated with white luminophore look more than appropriate in this monochrome design.
Along with the first-class execution of the case, the watch also has an annoying weakness, characteristic of many models with an integrated bracelet. I'm talking about a butterfly clasp with no micro-adjustment options. At the same time, the new product fits well on the wrist without pressing into it, and the slight slope and stepped design of the bezel also conceal the thickness.
Behind the massive case back is hidden the caliber GP03300-0141, equipped with a self-winding function. The mechanism is assembled from 419 parts and, at a standard balance frequency of 4 Hz, provides an acceptable power reserve of 46 hours. Acceptable, but not ideal, given the price category of the model.
Although the new watch, which will be part of the permanent collection, cannot be called an affordable watch, it is offered at almost the same price as the standard model with a steel case. The estimated cost of the watch is $19 (the difference with the steel version is less than $400).
