Around the world, ethnic Indian jewelry has been described as "intricate", "hypnotic", "extravagant", "artsy" and "intricate".
For connoisseurs of precious stones, traditional and ancient jewelry styles have always been attractive and interesting for the craftsmanship with which they are made. One of the ancient styles of jewelry in India is the Kundan jewelry, which is famous for its majestic and magnificent appearance and masterful workmanship.
What is Kundan jewelry?
It is a form of gemstone jewelry that is placed between golden partitions. Its hallmarks are precious and semi-precious polished gemstones that are stacked on top of each other in layers of beautiful shapes and patterns.
Kundan means highly refined pure gold and this type of jewelry includes 24 carat pure gold.
History of Kundan Jewelry
India's obsession with jewelry began with the advent of the Indus Valley Civilization over 5000 years ago, and since then, many styles of jewelry making have been created and mastered.
Kundan jewelry art flourished in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat with the support and patronage of the Mughals since the 16th century. This craft was already in use before the coming of the Mughals. But the Mughals gave it a new impetus. It is said that many styles of Kundan crafts and decorations were passed on to the artisans of Rajasthan and Gujarat from ships sailing from Delhi. The kings and statesmen of ancient India not only ordered Kundan stone jewelry, but also used it in the design of their royal attire and even as decoration for royal furniture.
Another name for this traditional art or technique is Kundan Keshari.
How are Kundan jewelry made?
Long hours are spent creating a Kundan masterpiece. This process is also very difficult. In most cases, there is a specially assigned master in each process, since a well-honed skill is required at each stage.
This begins with the construction of the skeletal frame, which is known as "Ghaat". This is followed by the "Paadh" procedure, where lacquer or natural resin is poured into the base and shaped according to the design of the Kundan set.
The next stage is called "Khudai", where raw, shaped, polished (multi-colored or single-colored) precious stones, as well as glass, are placed on the frame. After that, the "Pakai" process involves adding gold foil to hold the piece together tightly. The final stage is "Chillay" where the gemstones are properly polished.
Gemstones Commonly Used in Kundan Jewelry
While artisans and contemporary Kundan jewelry makers regularly experiment with different stones, the most common gemstones in Kundan jewelry are pearls, diamonds, emeralds, sapphire, topaz, ruby, agate, garnet, crystal, amethyst and nephritis.
Kundan jewelry is always in demand, especially during the wedding season. No Indian bridal ensemble is considered complete without the lavish inclusion of Kundan jewelry. Apart from weddings, Kundan jewelry is worn at any social events, celebrations or religious ceremonies. Millions of women buy Kundan jewelry to complement their Indian outfits, and some even wear it with modern Western outfits as a style.
The truth about Kundan jewelry is that due to its beauty and popularity, imitation versions and artificial Kundan jewelry are available in abundance in stores and online. These are brass or metal interpretations of real products.
Real Kundan is rare, exclusive and not cheap. It will take a lot of effort to find a handmade Kundan necklace that touches the soul and is 100% authentic, made by craftsmen in a small corner of Jaipur or Bikaner, spending hours perfecting each step of the masterpiece.
