Bulgari, the Italian high jewelery icon, has reached an important milestone. This year marks the 75th anniversary of the Serpenti collection. One of the house's most beloved motifs, Serpenti epitomizes everything Bulgari has to offer – passion for colour, blending exotic materials, innovative craftsmanship and effortless glamour – and the collection has become one of the most well-known and beloved icons in contemporary jewelry.
Since the first Serpenti was introduced in the late 1940s, it has been worn by some of Hollywood's most famous men and boasts a legacy to match.
Here we take a closer look at the fascinating design history and what makes the collection such an enduring classic.
Symbolism of the snake
Snakes have been revered in many cultures for centuries, and precious snake relics date back to ancient Egypt. Wisdom, eternity, strength, rebirth and protection are just some of the powerful qualities attributed to snake talismans throughout history.
The Greek goddess of love and beauty, Aphrodite, was often depicted with a snake bracelet, and in Roman times, snakes were also an important emblem. Serpents were also revered by many monarchs, giving them a sense of powerful prestige and royalty. So, Queen Victoria in 1839 received from Prince Albert an engagement ring with a snake silhouette, presented as a symbol of eternal love.
Growing popularity of Serpenti Bulgari
The first Serpenti collection appeared in 1948. It included watches in the style of bracelets, in which the famous “tubogas” technique was used. Corresponding to the "retro" or "machine style" of the era, the "Tubogas" bracelet was an avant-garde technique inspired by a flexible gas pipe. This technique gave each piece a springy and sinuous silhouette the like of which the world had never seen before, and soon Serpenti pieces were in high demand.
The influential Diana Vreeland—fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar US from 1936 to 1962 and then editor-in-chief of US Vogue—was a key advocate for Serpenti. She did not mention the collection by name, but became famous for telling her editorial team in 1968, "There should be a snake on every finger, on every wrist, everywhere." Vreeland's personal jewelry collection reflected this sentiment - she was known for wearing the striking Serpenti sash, daringly cinched twice around her neck.
It was the 1960s that cemented Serpenti's iconic status—Italian glamor took over American culture, and key cinematic moments cemented Serpenti in the very history of the silver screen. In particular, Elizabeth Taylor wore Serpenti on the set of Cleopatra in 1962, and her lover Richard Burton (who famously showered Taylor with jewels) said: "The only Italian Elizabeth knows is Bulgari."
By the 1970s, bold style had become synonymous with the house, and Serpenti's maximalist designs followed suit, and in the 1980s, the "Bulgari" logo appeared on jewelery and is now instantly recognizable.
Today, the Serpenti motif inspires both one-of-a-kind jewelery masterpieces and everyday collections: a wide range of watches, rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets that play on the Serpenti theme.
Who wears Serpenti?
The list of Serpenti adherents can be thought of as the "who's who" of fashion, art and pop culture, then and now. In the 1980s, Andy Warhol wore a Tubogas-style triple-helix snake watch and stopped by Bulgari every time he visited Rome, as he considered it "the most important contemporary art museum". Serpenti watches continue to make appearances in movies: in 2006, Meryl Streep wore a steel Serpenti watch in The Devil Wears Prada, bringing the design to a new generation of fashion aficionados.
Today, the Serpenti watch continues to draw attention for awards season – in 2021, Zendaya walked the red carpet of the Venice International Film Festival wearing a stunning Magnifica Hypnotic diamond necklace set with a nearly 94-carat emerald.
Paired with Dua Lipa, Miley Cyrus and Bella Hadid, Serpenti remains a staple of fashion's most powerful red carpet elite, but thanks to the Serpenti handbag line, the motif also accompanies Kate Moss, Miranda Kerr and Priyanka Chopra on red carpet occasions.
Where to buy Serpenti?
You can purchase Serpenti watches and jewelry directly from Bulgari or major designer stores including Selfridges, Net-a-Porter and Harrods. You can also purchase used options from stores like Vestiaire Collective, Farfetch, Watchfinder, and 1st Dibs. And don't forget that when you're investing in a timeless item, whether it's a watch or a piece of jewelry, it's important to know how to properly store and care for it so it will stand the test of time.
